Posted on September 27, 2017
Over the past few years, there’s been a surge in popularity for liquid lipsticks. What began as a niche product made only by a handful of cosmetics brands has now become a staple in nearly every company’s product line. Customers love liquid lipsticks because they combine the long-lasting wear and opaque pigmentation of a cream lipstick, but apply as easily as a sheer lipgloss.
Liquid lipstick is truly the best of both worlds for makeup fans, yet in order to take advantage of these benefits, objective color measurement is necessary to ensure that your product is as richly-pigmented as possible. Unlike a lipgloss or a lip tint, which can be a little sheer, a true liquid lipstick needs to be completely opaque, preferably with just one coat of application.1 Although this is a difficult feat to accomplish, today’s sophisticated color measurement instruments make the process as easy as possible.
Quality Control for Liquid Lipsticks Differs from Creams
One of the most common mistakes that cosmetics companies make when they formulate a liquid lipstick is that they treat the product just like a cream lipstick or liquid gloss. However, there is one factor that impacts liquid lipstick more than these other types of lip products: oxidation.2 While a cream lipstick might oxidize slightly after application, this usually doesn’t significantly alter the overall color of the lipstick— the cream looks about the same inside of the component as it does on a person’s lips. Similarly, a gloss that never dries down will generally look the same inside of the applicator as it does on the skin.
A liquid lipstick, however, can vary greatly in color after it’s been applied to the lips. Because this product goes on wet and has to dry in the air, exposure to oxygen alters the color, usually making it darker. For instance, it may appear deep pink in color inside of the bottle, but as it dries down completely on the lips its hue might transform into a deeper berry color due to oxidation. To account for this oxidizing effect and create the final hues you desire, you’ll need to test your liquid lipsticks using an objective color measurement instrument like a spectrophotometer.
Attaining the Perfect Shade
Your ideal liquid lipstick needs to have three qualities: an appealing, consistent color in the bottle, an opaque application, and a beautifully oxidized finish. Color consistency will be the easiest to measure and you can follow many of the same steps that you likely already use for your other lip products. Customers prefer to invest in makeup products that appear consistent both in color and smell, as this is a sign that the lipstick was manufactured properly, which means that monitoring color consistency is essential for meeting customer expectations.3 To test whether your liquid lipstick formula is consistent, use a spectrophotometer to compare each batch you make to your perfect shade. You should be able to tell instantly whether your liquid lipstick meets your color requirements while it’s still wet. This also ensures that your lipstick will oxidize and dry down to roughly the same hue.
However, you shouldn’t stop at this step. To create the best product possible, you should also use color measurement instruments to test your liquid lipstick’s opacity and confirm that the product did indeed dry down to the same color as previous batches. In the past, some cosmetics brands changed the way that they made their formulas without realizing that it impacted the color of the lipstick after application. By only testing the wet version of your liquid lipstick, you risk making the same mistake. Your liquid lipstick might look exactly the same in the bottle as previous batches, but one new ingredient could react differently with oxygen after application, completely changing the final shade. This is why it’s important to swatch your product on a substrate to test whether it goes on completely opaque with one application and that this application dries down to the exact shade that you want.
Full article with photos available here: